A Brief History of Fish Sauce

(legalnomads.com)

142 points | by vinhnx 21 hours ago ago

58 comments

  • throwaway20148 4 hours ago

    In the early 2000s, post-dotcom-crash I worked at small consultancy for the airlines industry that had a software wing. I think I made $11/hour slinging PHP code. They had sequestered the engineers, (half a dozen of us, all young) in the back of a large print shop (the consultancy specialized in manuals) and we had our own kitchen back there, so we sometimes cooked together.

    One of my coworkers was married to a Laotian woman and as such married into a large Laotian community. One day we went to the Asian supermarket and we bought all the stuff to make green papaya salad and larb. He brought three specific things from home for this: a weird aluminum cauldron, a bamboo basket to put on it (to make sticky rice) and a repurposed instant coffee bottle full of the strangest looking sludge. It looked kind of like peering into a chewing tobacco spit bottle. This was a bottle of homemade padaek[1] and he said it was like liquid gold in the community he lived in. It was foul as hell to smell but we did a taste test of the papaya salad before and after mixing it in and sure enough it was so much better with the padaek. It was an eye opening experience and since then I've always had a fish sauce bottle in my fridge. I even use a little of it in things like spaghetti sauce.

    Anyway if you have a chance to get your hands on a little homemade padaek, definitely do it. Would kill for some, myself. Also, share new foods with friends if they are open to it. I am very fond of that memory. I had never been exposed to those dishes before and even that small experience broadened my world in a simple, but meaningful way.

    [1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Padaek

    • mikepurvis 44 minutes ago

      I put a little fish sauce in chili too; it's great for giving savoury things that nice umami kick.

    • kbutler 4 hours ago

      Sounds like what they call "bla ra" in Thailand (Northeastern Thailand has a lot of Laotian influence). Thick/chunky, unlike the more refined "fish sauce" - "nam bla".

      Lived in a house for a while with neighbors making it - slow fermenting pots of fish. Not a pleasant olfactory experience.

  • wluu 3 hours ago

    If anyone needs a Vege friendly fish sauce, here's one for Lao/Thai food https://www.veganlaofood.com/recipe/fish-sauce/

    It's pretty simple to make.

  • youngprogrammer 2 hours ago

    Fish sauce is delicious but had to stop using it since it's high in histamine (gives me a stuffy nose) and potentially carcinogenic due to its high levels of nitrosamines

  • kccqzy 5 hours ago

    I bought a bottle of Vietnamese fish sauce (Red Boat brand, the most recommended brand) and added a teaspoon to some pea leaves. I loved the resulting flavor, but my partner did not and complained that it had too much of a fishy smell. A lot of cooking techniques actually seek to remove this fishy smell even when cooking fish, so it was not welcome to add this to something that didn’t contain fish in the first place. It’s certainly not a flavor everyone would like.

    • wahern 4 hours ago

      I use anchovy fillets in alot of recipes to add umami and nutrients, not just sauces but also things like meatloaf. Fishiness dissipates pretty quickly with heat, even faster with acidic ingredients like tomatoes, citrus, or vinegar. It's pretty easy to modulate fishiness, even with just acid. I double or triple the anchovies in a typical caesar dressing recipe, and if I feel I over did it just adding more lemon juice tamps it down.

      One of my kids is pretty picky, even sensitive to onions, but doesn't seem to pick up on the anchovies. She'll eat fish, though, depending on mood, so maybe she's not the best benchmark.

      • MengerSponge 2 hours ago

        That's the spirit! But you shouldn't underestimate the power of suggestion:

        "This was cooked with fish sauce" -> "This tastes fishy"

    • wildzzz 3 hours ago

      Please understand that 3 crabs is a million times better than red boat.

    • antinomicus 5 hours ago

      Fish sauce is not supposed to be added to the point that you can taste the fishy taste, you do get that right? If you’ve added enough to impart fishy taste, you’ve added way too much.

      • NL807 4 hours ago

        Not quite true. Lots of Thai dishes use a tonne of fish sauce and even shrimp paste in their dishes. They even make side dish dipping sauce (Nam Jim Jaew) that's like basically 50% fish sauce.

      • jandrewrogers 4 hours ago

        No, people have different sensitivity to it. Many people experience Vietnamese fish sauce as a strong “rancid fish” character that is not at all subtle in all traditional recipes that use it. It isn’t “using too much”, it is “using any at all”.

        I imagine it is like the people who are sensitive to cilantro, thinking it tastes like soap.

      • skrtskrt an hour ago

        I think in many dishes you can add quite a lot, but it blends and cooks in with other ingredients so that the "fish sauce flavor" does not jump out as such.

        I make mapo tofu with 1 tsp each of fish sauce, oyster sauce and light soy sauce. I don't think anyone would think it tastes like fish or oyster sauce in any way, but it doesn't taste right at all without them. The same goes for many other dishes.

      • wildzzz 3 hours ago

        I've used fish sauce as an alternative to anchovy paste for caeser salad dressing which is heavily defined by a fishy taste.

      • xuki 4 hours ago

        Some people are just more sensitive to certain smells and flavors than others, especially if they didn't have previous exposure to them.

      • raincole 3 hours ago

        I don't think your idea of 'fishy taste' is the same as theirs.

      • kccqzy 4 hours ago

        I could not taste the fishy taste myself but my partner can. It varies by person how sensitive they are.

      • morkalork 4 hours ago

        Right? It's there to add a layer of depth and savoury umami

        • 121789 16 minutes ago

          Lots of people are super sensitive to the “fishiness” of fish sauce. I can taste it with just a few drops in a large dish. I love it now, but it took a while to get used to

  • dherman 5 hours ago

    My high school Latin classmates and I made garum and left it to ferment in my back yard for a month. Young and foolish as we were, we stored it in a plastic Tupperware container. The day I brought it back to school for the class tasting, I had it sitting on a stack of piano books in the passenger seat of my car.

    Weeks later, the rotted fish stench just wouldn't fade from my book of Beethoven sonatas. I ended up throwing it away.

  • skipkey 4 hours ago

    So the West still does have a fish sauce in common use, although one that's not nearly as strong as the eastern variants. Worcestershire sauce was an attempt to recreate an Indian fish sauce, and to this day contains anchovies.

    • klik99 3 hours ago

      Ketchup also has origins from fish sauce

      • wahnfrieden 3 hours ago

        Colatura di alici is very much in use in the west…

        • ggm 2 hours ago

          I found the 'not common' comment in the original article quite confounding. It is somewhat specific, yes But the general sense "anchovies and anchovy paste adds umami" is really strongly established. So it's become much more specific, but it still exists.

          • GavinMcG an hour ago

            I wouldn’t imagine most people consider anchovy paste a sauce?

            • ggm an hour ago

              "sauce" is such an imprecise concept. Fish Sauce is a condiment. Anchovy paste is often used as a condiment/additive e.g. on a ceaser salad, or to perk up a pizza.

              Fish sauce is added to soups, to dishes during cooking as well as at the end. Dressing a papaya salad with a fish sauce heavy dressing is only one way of using it, we use it to make dipping sauces.

              We also use Anchovy paste as an ingredient in other dipping sauces, and dressings for salads. And we add it to meat dishes much as worcestershire sauce is: given its an ingredient along with Tamarind, it's much the same thing.

              In Britain, it's a posh paste to spread on toast, much as we use Vegemite or Marmite. Anchovy toast was an afternoon tea thing.

              I think, it's pretty sauce like. If not, I think it's a fundamental ingredient of sauces people reach over to use directly.

  • tananan 21 hours ago

    Thanks for sharing. It is especially interesting to hear the factors that contributed to the decline of fish sauce use in the west.

    One thing I am “stealing” from SEA is fish sauce in scrambled eggs. Feels almost like a cheat code.

    • vinhnx 15 hours ago

      Oh absolutely and you're welcome! Btw, fish sauce in scrambled eggs over rice is one of the simplest, most satisfying meals you'll find across Southeast Asia, in my country Vietnam especially. It's my favorite meal also.

    • AdieuToLogic 6 hours ago

      > One thing I am “stealing” from SEA is fish sauce in scrambled eggs. Feels almost like a cheat code.

      A bit of stone ground mustard added to scrambled eggs is another culinary delight.

      • markdown 5 hours ago

        What if my mustard is made without stones. Will it still work?

        • AdieuToLogic 4 hours ago

          > What if my mustard is made without stones. Will it still work?

          It depends on your risk tolerance to try I suppose. It will either be a delicious variant or create a space-time singularity dooming us all...

          :-D

    • stevenwoo 6 hours ago

      ICYMI - This is an attempt to mimic a secret Vietnamese American restaurant recipe but interesting use of fish sauce with spaghetti https://www.tasteofhome.com/article/san-francisco-style-viet...

    • ghaff 5 hours ago

      At least in the US, fish in general is somewhat polarizing and, probably especially, strong tasting fish like anchovies, fish sauce, etc. Just not something probably the majority of people grew up with.

      • jandrewrogers 4 hours ago

        It isn’t just familiarity. Some people experience some fish sauces as having vividly foul flavor. This includes people who routinely eat anchovies, cured fish, etc.

        It is clearly an issue of sensitivity.

      • rayiner 4 hours ago

        Its midwesterners. There’s a fish tradition in most other parts of the country.

        • 121789 20 minutes ago

          Nah fish sauce is different. You can give most midwesterners fish and chips or worcestershire and they’ll be fine with it. But many will find fish sauce initially pungent and repulsive until they get used to it

      • duped 4 hours ago

        Worcestershire sauce is a fish sauce that's used all over American cuisine, especially BBQ.

        • jandrewrogers 4 hours ago

          Yep. But unlike, say Red Boat, I don’t know anyone who thinks it has a strong rancid taste.

          • ghaff 4 hours ago

            Yeah. Technically I suppose you could describe it as a fish sauce but definitely more on the umami and vinegar side. I'm also not sure the degree to which Worcestershire Sauce is especially a mainstream American condiment. I have a jar in my cupboard. Not sure how many houses do.

            • jandrewrogers 4 hours ago

              Worcestershire is a mainstream condiment in America. There is a pretty diverse range of American cuisine that has it as a common ingredient.

              You don’t use much when you use it but I somehow go through a bottle every couple years.

            • duped 2 hours ago

              But barbecue sauce with it absolutely is

    • dbcooper 4 hours ago

      Worcestershire Sauce (fermented anchovy base) with eggs is a classic combination for a reason.

    • stackghost 4 hours ago

      Put it in tomato sauce for pasta. Just a tablespoon or so.

      • stackghost an hour ago

        Okay I know we're not supposed to complain about downvotes but c'mon it's actually delicious, doesn't taste like fish, and just adds umami. Don't knock it until you try it!

  • dbcooper 3 hours ago

    Interesting video on the history of Worcestershire Sauce (fermented anchovy base):

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0q5QhGnEKUM

    Addendum: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvF2m57_Usg

  • rcakebread 5 hours ago

    I'm just here to thank Kenji for making me try fish sauce.

  • rawgabbit 4 hours ago

    I can only eat it when used as a dipping sauce for Bánh Xèo https://www.bonappetit.com/story/banh-xeo-vietnamese-sizzlin...

  • ggm 2 hours ago

    I wish somebody would do this for "Smen" from North Africa, and trace it's lineage and relationship.

    I'm told if you want a sense of it, add knobs of soft blue cheese to your cuscous.

  • Magi604 3 hours ago

    Wow, Legalnomads! Happy to see her pop up here. Way back in the day when I used to backpack and freelance she had a very big online presence in the internet hustler community. I just read through her recent history and I'm sad for her recent health issues, but glad she's still pushing through.

  • robocat 4 hours ago

    I vividly remember the reek of a fish sauce factory in Vietnam.

    I highly recommend avoiding going anywhere near them.

  • babybjornborg 4 hours ago
  • IamTC 4 hours ago

    Try fish sauce with pasta sauces. Next level.

    • 01100011 2 hours ago

      I put some in the ground beef when I make burgers.

  • saysjonathan 6 hours ago

    Homemade garum is a fun kitchen experiment, if you have the equipment and patience. Heat + protease + protein substrate is really all you need.

    • valzevul 5 hours ago

      On that note, the easiest way to get your hands on some protease is to buy digestive enzymes sold as food supplements (most often they're made out of dried pork pancreas).

      You also don't need much equipment: scales and an immersion circulator should do the trick.

    • joshu 5 hours ago

      it hasn't updated in a while but i quite like this blog: https://www.culinarycrush.biz/all/will-it-garum

    • dbg31415 3 hours ago

      Please, for the love of all that is holy, do not make this if you have neighbors.

      https://www.youtube.com/shorts/R1Hq3WEqVeI

      The video claims the smell is not "entirely unpleasant" but that's a lie. It is the most disgusting smell I have ever encountered. And I used to have to shovel manure and clean chicken coops growing up. Once I even had to dig a dead racoon out of the guts of a square baler after it got run over and jammed up the machinery and then sat for a few days in the summer heat. Garum smells worse.